A very late write-up about the Italy Divide 2019

A recent post by 3rd place finisher Jay Petervary in the inaugural Atlas Mountain Race had me thinking about my ride at 2019 Italy Divide....Jay made a quick little FB post about his race and noted that he took the time to sit, relax and take in the culture and this had me wanting to be back on the trails, just my bike and I and some many hours spent in the saddle, but also some time chilling around people from another culture, another way of living as they go about their daily lives.
There's no doubt these guys race hard, really hard but the fact JP mentioned the need (or want) to sit and take some culture in, makes me happy about how i performed in Italy last year.

I breakdown a bikepack race in to three 'levels', with of course, the underlying goal of finishing. 

Level 1, The Ride
Everyone does the same route in a bikepack event however, the environmental conditions play a large role in how we 'see' the route. The beauty in this is that we all ride at a different pace and thus our experiences on route are can vary considerably. For some, a hike-a-bike might happen in the wee hours of the night and the singletrack seemed super techy and the fatigue levels were super high but for another rider reaching this same trail in daylight and feeling fresh, could mean it was a highlight section of the entire route. Then there's the weather. Weather systems in any given area means it could be a matter of hours or even minutes that can change a super fast dirt track into an oblivion of mud stuck to the bike and terrible words coming out ones mouth!

On the 2019 Divide, the winners, Sofiani Sehelli and James Hayden were way out front and ended up getting smashed with some snowfall up the mountains, within the last 100k of the route. They froze, they walked, they trudged on and finished together, as conditions meant that staying together was the safest method of travel. As time went on, conditions got better and two days later, when i came through, the temps were still cool at around 0C but the mountain roads had cleared and riding was totally feasible. A totally different experience for me.

I chose Maxxis Ikon 2.2's on my Cutthroat for this event. On the Tour Divide in 2018, i rode Ikon's as well, but on my Fatboy frame with 29er wheels from @wovenprecisionhandbuilts, out of Ottawa, Ontario. I love the Ikon tire. It has never let me down, ever. Many riders were going quite thin on tire choice for the Italy Divide, down to 40mm, is what I noticed...and many had flats. Route-wise, there is some full-on techy, rockie, rooty nastiness but also miles and miles of pavement too.  I always err on the side of bigger tires, for more volume, not only for tough riding but also for comfort, as my Cutthroat is fully rigid. 

Level 2, The Mental/Physical Element 
A quote that I have on some blackboard paint in my bathroom cupboard door says: "Your attention dictates your direction".  There's no doubt that I like to push myself, in everything that I do.
Typically referred to as "type II" fun, the physical and mental challenge of a bikepack event can often be attributed to your attitude. In my line of work, which is Adventure Guide Training at the post secondary level, the most important attribute we teach our students is that attitude will get you through anything. Bad weather, terrible route conditions, poor gear choices, etc, etc... the list can go on for pages, but how you act at any given moment is without a doubt a large contributing factor as to whether we finish something, or not.

On the Italy Divide, I had very few moments of poor attitude, if any, that i can recall...I truly enjoyed the long, steep climbs. I know there are other's out there that also enjoy the climbs, be it a long and drawn-out low grade cruise of an insanely steep grade, that could end up in a hike a bike...to me, it's all good. The large crowds of people swarming our route in the city centers was probably what tested my patience the most. I live in a village of 900 people, in a very rural area, so trying to navigate thousands of people walking, while on my bike, tired, muddy and dirty was probably what 'tested' me the most and in hindsight...not a big deal.

In short, you can smile and laugh, or, you can bitch and moan...the choice is always there...it's up to you to decide on the direction you take.


Level 3, The Experiential Element
By far my favourite aspect to riding in new areas is the immersion into a new culture, or, at the very least, being a passer-by on a bike and getting a sense of daily life in a totally different part of the world. One of the biggest debates I always have with myself is between riding at as much of a race pace that I can sustain or stopping to take in the new cultures, sights, smells and sounds. The aspect of  the race usually takes a back seat for me and the stopping for longer periods of time, to soak in the culture and new experiences, seem to take precedence. I feel that if i was to repeat an event, that race mode would kick-in and the need to stop more and take-in the local fare and culture would take a back seat.

Not returning to an event for a second or third time is what begs me to stop more often than I probably should, especially knowing that I could keep riding into the night. No excuses now that i set up a K-Lite with a SON dynamo....just awesome! 

In Italy, as I passed a cafe or pub I pass, I'd ask myself if I should stop in and see what's going on....to see what it's like to have a beer at that particular establishment. I'd sit in a corner and quietly sip a pint of new brew and watch the locals pop in, the bartender chat with staff and clients and listen to the banter of people in a different language. I love it all and would find it terribly difficult to not stop in and experience new places.

Pizza & Beer around corner. How could you not stop and enjoy this! 

I feel as though I took good advantage of most stopping opportunities in Italy. I sat down and ate at restaurants. I hopped in to small pizzerias and quickly ordered a pie or two and chatted with the staff, who often had just as many questions for me, as I have for them. Tasting local fare and glancing around to see what happens in these tiny villages on a random night of the week is really fun for me and helps me understand different ways of life and it encourages me to gain a greater perspective on other cultures. Travel kills all prejudice (I think Mark Twain is quoted saying something along these lines...).

Naples (Mt Visuvius in background)

As I type out this blog post, almost a year later (yup, true story), I cannot help but share my sympathy for all Italians as they cope with devastating hardship and loss during the COVID19 outbreak. It's impossible to imagine what it is like there now compared to a year ago, when the sun shone bright on every little village I rode through and people were out and about their daily lives, working, shopping, playing...living a normal life. Not now though, not even close and as COVID19 sets in on the rest of the world, as we all take shelter, away from one another, within the confines of homes, it is painful to realize that a new normal is taking shape and that the end is unknown. We don't know how all this will unfold in a month, 6 months, or even a year from now but what we can do, is adjust our attitude so that it points forward. We can continue to strive toward the top of the next massive climb and peer over the summit in hopes that brighter, healthier days lie ahead of us.

Until next time, #grindon.

I'd like to thank:
Giacomo/Jack, the organizer/route planner of the event. Great job!
Zeno's and his family for picking me up at the finish and hosting me overnight at their home. So kind and I hope that you're all well during this epidemic.
Woven Precision Handbuilts for their incredible carbon wheel builds and hubs.
Thief Bikepacking Bags for endless supplies of feedbags, frame bags and stickers!